Butler Work Station

The desk and work station are from the same design family, and the basics of frame construction has been the same. Below are two end assemblies for the work station, and one for the desk with the legs now doweled and glued together.

Here, the spiral fluted dowels have been glued in place, and the oval, angled holes are drilled for a pocket screw to eventually attach the leg frame to the top.
The front and back skirt boards are given an arched lower edge, and I have made several patterns of various lengths over the years. For these desks, I found my drawer chest front pattern and decided it would be perfect. The first step is to lay the pattern over and trace a pen line on the skirt piece. Then they are cut to rough shape with the bandsaw.
After the rough cut, the pattern is clamped over the skirt, or in this case, the lower part of the side frame. The router with a bearing guided bit trims them very predictably to the pattern.. By routing, and then moving the clamps, it eventually allows the whole curve to be shaped into the beautiful faired arch.
Next is the prep work of drilling the top pocket screw holes, making a cut out for the drawer, sanding and rounding the edge of the skirt to make it comfortable to the touch. The dowels of the skirt boards are added, glued and clamped to the legs.
The desk is assembled first, and it is always a relief to get through this assembly stage successfully, as much work has gone into the individual parts.
Then the work station is assembled and the drawer box cabinet added inside it..
To keep the end consistent with maple slats and walnut bases, I flattened the inside of the pre- assembled end, and routed a small ledge all the way around the insides of the slats and bases.The four white oak panels were added to fill the spaces, and are held in place by the plywood covers. Small gaps are left in between the parts, as some seasonal movement will inevitably occur.
From the outside. it is adapted to fit the family, and still enclose the drawers like they meant to be there. One step leads to another, and the light grows visible at the end of the tunnel.

Butler Desk 2

Barbra chose Rift Sawn White Oak for the main wood parts, and then we added some mildly contrasting curly maple for the slats and walnut for the slat bases. The combination is show above, with only a hint of the beauty coming after finishing.

The next step was making the slat bases. Small parts can be dangerous and hard to hold, and the end grain easy to chip out. So, I started routing the end profile of a wide block first, which will become four individual bases.

The extra front guide board with a small router hole was clamped in place temporarily. It helps to keep a short piece from pulling in towards the cutter, and the push block is a safe, steady place for the trailing hand.
When the end shape was finished, the wide piece was cut into four slender parts to make the slat bases. Then the edge routing was done, cleaning up any tear out from the cross grain routing. It is always best to make an extra or two just for practicing the next step, or some random problem.
Then the blocks were laid aside to finally do the inevitable, make a parts list and move ahead. For furniture, we start with any applicable ergonomic dimensions, and move on to functional corner joint sizes.
The slats are cut to width, and stood in place just temporarily to make sure the proportions are satisfactory. The Divine Proportion, or the Golden Ratio has always been fascinating, derived from Pi, which is close to 1:1.6. However, I reserve the right for my eyes to make final judgement, as in this look. The cross base is 1/2” wider on both ends at this stage, so what may seem like extra space on the sides of the slats should be fine.
Next, the construction of the cross pieces.

Then the unthinkable, I drilled an extra hole on the end of an irreplaceable slat. After a bit of critical musing, I routed out the drill hole, as shown below.

Then, I looked carefully through the scrap from the slat cutoffs, and found a piece to make the repair filler.
The filler was glued in place and when it was shaped down to size, I think it turned out to be on the short list of the best repairs I have ever done in many years of making mistakes.
You can tell it is the same piece by the left over part of the drilled hole, and lighter stripes that don’t wrap perfectly around the corner. The vertical brown grain is not exactly aligned either, but it will successfully hide from all but the closest inspector. Should this piece ever come into question for authenticity, a reader of this blog could make the judgement.

As I was deciding whether to turn the middle slat face inside or out, the figure on the edge gave a suggestion of a tear drop. It reminded me that not all things get fixed so easily, and some tears are left that only God can wipe away. The slat stayed facing out.

Butler Desk 1

On the last day of September, in the middle of one of the most colorful and durable fall seasons, an inquiry email came from Barbra Butler. It turns out that she had a friend who came to the MCC Relief Sale in Goshen a couple weeks earlier, and mentioned seeing some work I had donated to the sale. She took a look at the website my son-in-law Danny made for me, and used the submission form to email me.

We discussed some questions on the phone and arranged for her and her husband Jim to come to the shop and check it out in person. The following Saturday, they took a 2 1/2 hour road trip to my home. We took a house and shop tour, looking at design ideas and construction techniques. It was a pleasant and rewarding conversation heading the same direction toward a desk and work station.

The first step was redrawing a desk that is on my short list of all time favorites, to meet the proportions Barbra was wanting.
The first decision was the wood type and Rift Sawn White Oak was picked, for the most straight grain and least medullary ray figure. These 9-10 footers fit the bill perfectly.
With the design and dimensions in my mind, I began laying out the pieces for the most important parts, the tops. For the 27 x 60 top, one wide board was able to be cut into two 60” halves and flank the middle in a most pleasing arrangement. The trio turned out to be 3/4” too narrow, so I spent considerable time with the other boards for another suitable match. In the end, nothing else struck my fancy, so I went with the eye over the tape measure.
This is the lay out work on the shorter top, 30 x 48. The focus does not do justice to the harmony of arrangement which will show up as the piece comes together. These pieces are set aside to be sanded through a wide belt sander at my favorite wood supply, Nisley’s Sons in Goshen.
Next was leg making. The heavier proportion called for dimensions not possible to find in Riftsawn White Oak, and it was not uncommon for the best of Prairie and Mission Styles to have hollow legs. In the past, I have used a 45 degree locking miter, but I wanted to have part of the middle solid for the best holding of the dowel joints. So I decided for a center fill of soft maple.
After the sides were glued, a groove was routed out, and a cap piece made. This is to give the best grain match all the way around the leg.
The caps were about 3/8” thick, so I used 7/8” support boards on each side. The Jorgensen clamps are 30 years old, and still pulling their weight with amazing strength.
Here is the leg after some basic machining to dimension, with the caps on the sides. The difference between face and edge grain can be easily seen. However, it nearly disappears when the corner is routed with a 3/16” round over. Then the eye relaxes, and the hand is comforted with the sharp edge is gone. Next up, making skirt, cross pieces, slats and slat bases.

Sofa Cabinet

In a beautiful tall living room overlooking Sweetwater Lake are stunning views galore, and eclectic design touches near at hand: the counter tops, the antique doors, the contemporary lamps and the real life boat functioning as a bed overhanging the balcony above. The room is generous in proportion as an invitation to a crowded party, and a large sofa sits facing the window side, leaving the back exposed to the entrance.

Why would you not put a long low cabinet to balance the back of the sofa, and give it room for the mandatory games, an oversized travel book maybe, and an elegant light or two? And why would you choose any style besides chevrons for the theme of the piece?

A few sketches boiled down to this one, and the final construction drifted to the right side.
Walnut was the wood of choice, and to give the best chance of a long enduring life, many dowels were used to make strong joints. There was a knot on this board which was laid out on the inside of the bottom skirt board, never to be seen, but I couldn’t resist drilling it out and replacing it with a solid face grain plug.
The back frame is being joined to the bottom, with biscuits to align the edges.
Now the front face and legs are being assembled to the case, using sixty-four dowels.
Clamping a cabinet that is 8’ long presents some special problems, with clamps hooked to each other or to middle face frame dividers. All the joints need to be tested without glue, to make sure they go together well, and then finally clamped with glue. The second time is the more nerve racking as there are only a few minutes working time.
The lower angled braces served to add a bridge arch design element, but also adds two more dowels at the post ends, and more vertical strength. The basic case is complete.
The cabinet ends and doors were designed to have chevron patterns. I picked a board with interesting grain, and cut it in 3” widths, and then sliced those in half to have enough chevrons all from the same board. They were routed with a lap joint, cut to angle, and glued to the panel center line. The assembled panels were then installed into the door frames.
After a few decades of messing around with wood, I still failed to fully account for the personality of walnut, as it presents with a bit more variability of sheen and color, depending on the orientation of the individual piece and the light source.
Back from the finish shop, with handles installed. Overall, I find this piece sophisticated and elegant, strong and graceful. Maybe it is just how life goes, we all like to be seen in the best light.
Waiting for the move to a gorgeous living room, and to get filled with games, fun times and memories.

Charcuterie / Kitchen

Wood is a friendly and warm surface to touch and look at in a home, and it finds special places in the kitchen. Over a lifetime of woodworking, I have done many projects for kitchens including coasters, trivets, cheese boards, cutting boards, and now Charcuterie boards.

Looking for all of the interesting pieces of wood left over from projects along the way, and too small to become a piece of furniture made this collection: White Oak, Curly Maple, Cherry, Mahogany, and Walnut.
The fun thing was arranging them in pleasing combinations.
As I looked at the boards, such personality seemed to emerge, that I began naming them, and the names were eventually engraved on them. This is Rippling River, of curly maple, walnut and cherry. The others were After Glow, Sunburst, Northern Lights, Elegance, Exuberance, Harvest Party 1 & 2, Hearts Desire, Joy Overflowing, Ribbons of Grace, Waves of Grace, Early Dawn, First Light, Mahogany Morning, Golden Tassel, and Rolling Thunder.
Another series of Charcuterie boards were done for sister Anne’s Christmas list. In this case I found an interesting plank of walnut, and sliced it down the middle to make book matched pieces.
The first coat of finish really lit up the grain!
Last but not least was the group of wire cheese slicers I bought and assembled into some left over, even smaller treasures of spalted maple. They take cheese to a whole new level of sophistication.

Thompson Transom 2

After all the wood repair was complete, and the holes filled with new wood and epoxy to last another generation, I called Scott at Lake Effect Marina to see if we should just paint the back end because the corners were not in good shape. He said that the owner was really hopeful that the same Mahogany look could be retained.

I asked about the corners and the bottom, and finally Scott said, “Dave, I have seen your boat. Just do this the way you would do it for yourself and I am sure it will be good.” Well, that settled it and made it clear how to proceed. it was time to add the pretty Mahogany layer.

The top piece was the most time consuming, trying to conform the the rub rail as closely as possible.
Then the pieces were epoxied and held in place by screws with wood washers, to prevent a large hole made by the head of the screw.
Usually, the transom wood goes first, and the side planks overlap the back. In this case, the corner was worn and chipped some, so the fairing epoxy was added to restore a strong and clean corner. That was how I’d do it.
Cutting away the extra 1/4” veneer, and shaping epoxy fairing compound involves some tricks. The roughest cutting was done with the American and Japanese saws, with the ends taped to protect against scratching the side. The rasp and chisels did more refinement, and the trusty orbital sander finished the job.
Yes, now the the side and bottom are now ready for paint touch up. The corner line is now accurate and will be beautiful.
The next step was to consider how to fill the small holes left from the screw clamps. The way I would do it is was with some elegant face grain plugs. So I did it that way. . . I cut off the end of a mahogany board, and made saw kerfs on both end. Then I used the band saw to cut the 1/4” square rods which have face grain on the ends.
The fragile cross grain rods are chucked gently into the drill, supported by the forked holder, and spun into a dull pencil shape.
The boat needed around 60 of these small face grain plugs.
Here are a couple of them, glued in.
Voila, the plugs nearly disappear even to a close inspection. Sanding started with a 80 grit long board for fairing, and then went through 120, 180 and 220 grits to prepare for varnish to be sprayed on. The beautiful iridescence will be showing soon, and I can imagine a boat name appearing near the top.
Jay from Lake Effect Marina came to pick it up, and kindly removed a snow pole rather than running over it. I hope to see the old Thompson when the project is finished.

Thompson Transom 1

Last summer when I took my wood boat for spring fire to Lake Effect Marina in Union, Michigan, the service tech Todd, asked me if I would some transom repair on an old wooden boat they were rebuilding. I thought about it a bit, and then said something like, “Um, well, I don’t know.” Todd took that for a yes, and escorted me to the storage building where it sat in sad circumstances.

I looked at it and mentally compared it to the size of my walkout basement shop. It still did not register yes. I said that I work pretty slow, so if he has another option, he should probably take it. Todd said that he had no other options, and that in the next couple of weeks he would clear the transom for me to rework.

A few weeks went by, then a couple of months, and relief was starting to settle in. Then, in October, I took my wood boat back to the marina for winter maintenance. The topic came up again, and this time Scott, the service manager, also talked about the 1962 Thompson.

This time I said I was about ready to start a boat of my own, so that them in a hustle to get first in line. Around November 15, Jay from the big office, brought it out to my house, and expertly backed it toward the garage door. The windshield would not clear the header, until we figured out that the canopy support frame was in the way. We rotated it down and then we backed her in with an inch to spare.

It filled up my shop, so I figured the only solution was to get to work. I picked up a 4 x 8 sheet of Okume Marine plywood, and some epoxy supplies at Johnson’s Workbench in South Bend, Indiana. The Mahogany came from Nisley and Sons east of Goshen.

The first task was adding an inch of thickness to the transom, on the inside of the boat. The existing framework required that the pieces be cut so I staggered the joints for the best strength. Each piece was glued in place and held with screws until the epoxy set up. The the screws were removed so there is no metal in the way of the future installation,, and each hole injected with epoxy.

When the inside was in place, I painted on a couple of coats of varnish and started to repair the back side.
A large hole needed a custom fit plug.
Another hole needed a round filler, so I rough cut it on the bandsaw and finished it by spinning on the sander.
The large hole marked by blue tape had some undercut decayed wood, so I made a router jig to cut out a rectangular hole to make a fill piece.
For smaller holes where I had drilled out some decayed wood, I made 1/2 inch face plugs.
Eventually, all the holes were filled, and sealed up, and the previous motor hole filled.
Epoxy filler was added to hollow areas, and sanded smooth to fair the surface in preparation for the new mahogany.

Fixing A Broken Screw

With furniture old and new, occasionally a screw breaks off under the surface and hides contentedly. The most common fix is to drill another hole beside it and put a new screw in there. The problem is that either the new screw will pull the hinge out of square, or more likely, the screw will go in at an angle. Then the screw head usually sticks up, which can interfere with the easy closing of the hinges.

This time, I decided to fix it right and remove the half screw. I first drilled a 1/2” hole with a Forstner bit close the the metal shaft. Then, several 1/16” holes were drilled around the screw.

A little picking around it with a needle nose plier gave a purchase point, and I reversed the screw out of the hole. Voila!

After drilling more deeply into the hole with the same 1/2” bit, I cut a 1/2” plug from a section of walnut that matched fairly well, and glued it into place.

A little clean up with a sharp chisel, and a touch of finish makes as good as new, and ready for a new screw hole to be drilled. It’s just another one of those things buried into the construction of a furniture piece, that should never to be seen again. Sometimes the toughest test of craftsmanship is recovering from the inevitable and unexpected detours.

Sofa Cabinet Framework

A recent project was a sofa cabinet which needed to be 8’ long. For the reasons of the long span, and the hope of it meeting the “hundred year warranty,” uncommon strength was necessary. The angled braces at the bottom give visual support, like the arch of a bridge, but they also stiffen the ends of the lower face frame, and make a wider connection to the leg.

For the best strength, wood joints need physical wood crossover. The traditional mortise and tenon joint is a thing of beauty and enduring function, when perfectly executed. But I chose the underrated dowel for most of the joints, which can imitate or exceed the function of the mortise and tenon in several ways:

  1. The holes in both parts to be joined are made with the same drill, giving the best repeated fit.
  2. Dowels are pre-made with spiral flutes that hold just the right glue thickness and resist being pulled out.

Spiral fluted dowels

Below are two pieces of face frame, with the holes drilled and dowels just glued in. The good fit shows a small amount of glue pressing up and is cleaned off before it sets up. By the way, the knot was not going to show, but it seemed worthy of replacing with a solid plug. Maybe some day when it is moved, it may be noticed on the inside of the bottom face.

For drilling the holes, the best helper tool I have found is the Dowelmax. It is adjusted by adding washers to move the dowels farther from the edge, and I also use spacer sticks like the one shown on top of the walnut leg. This allows very accurate repeat positioning for each part of the process.

By patiently laying out the joints, and positioning the jig carefully in place, very accurate results can be gained. Then, there is the important sequence of gluing, so that all of one face is completed before adding sides. I always dry fit each joint to make sure it goes together as planned.

The last glue up step is the most nerve racking, as the second entire end must be clamped to front and back face pieces. The length of the cabinet required use of two clamps hooked together in a couple of places.

The Pocket Knife

As I remember it, the sharp, shiny steel and black pocket knife showed up at our house on Myers Avenue when I was about 8 years old. To this day, I am confused about where it came from, but my Dad showed it to me around my birthday and said it would be mine to keep when I turned 12.

Photo of my present Pocket Knife

My dad never went hunting or fishing, so I didn’t think the knife was directly from him. The main tools he had were for gardening or some house remodeling.  Once, he let me help build a dog house for our new puppy.

Photo of dog house, my sisters Margaret and Mary, and Brother Joe and our new puppy, Murphy..


Most likely, the pocket knife came from a sale when my Liechty Grandparents moved off the farm to Brussels St. in Archbold, Ohio. In any case, it was a great reminder of him, because with around 45 Liechty first cousins, I didn’t get to know him real well.  He always seemed bigger than life, and then he passed away when I was 7.

Unfortunately, having seen the knife and knowing it was forbidden fruit, caused me to poke around for it on occasion, when my dad was at work.  Voila, one day I found it in the back of Dad’s dresser drawer, in a fine little cardboard box, wrapped up with tissue inside.

I didn’t see any harm in carefully taking it out and admiring it, but before long, I wanted to see how it worked.  We lived beside the woods along Yellow Creek, and so I took it along exploring, practicing carving as I went.  The spear point went well, but the sling shot required a special pull stroke.

Since this had been an unauthorized, private adventure, I did not get the basic education in carving, especially Rule No. 1: Never, never, never carve toward yourself.  The knife slipped and cut to the bone at the base of my right index finger, which produced an impressive amount of blood.

I had to hustle in to the house to show mom.  She bandaged it and mentioned that Dad would be coming home soon.  The pain of the injury was exceeded by the spanking, but I still love pocket knives.